Want Lop Babies?

First Things to Know & Ponder

Potty Trained

All babies are potty trained or close to it by the time they leave. All food is hung above their grated potty trays. They poop where they eat so they learn quickly that this is where they go. 

They also learn from their moms. Sometimes they choose the spot where they want to go, even after you have put a potty somewhere. Put the potty where they decide they want to wee—you can’t argue with them on this, trust me. They may also need time to adjust to their new set up. If you free roam them, make sure they are completely potty trained in their area or expanded area before you provide them with a bigger area to roam, or the entire house.  

Cuddly Bunnies?

Everyone wants a snuggle bug for a rabbit, but to be honest, this is not in their nature. Our buns are super adorable, sweet and friendly, although some have more boisterous personalities than others. We cannot guarantee all buns will be born with a “cuddly” personality, but we do our best to provide a SOCIALIZED bun. To do this, we groom and pet them often so they are used to people and being handled. No rabbit prefers to be picked up, but if you do it often, they will learn to tolerate it. (This is especially helpful when you have to take them to the vet so you’re not fighting with them to get in the carrier.) I recommend a long-tooth grooming/flea comb--they really enjoy being groomed and this relaxes them. Start at the head, comb gently down the spine, and down on the sides. Put them on your lap everyday and comb them for about 20 minutes (or until they pee on you) and work up to an hour or as long as they will endure. Also, give them a pinch of oats or some cilantro while you groom them. They will learn to associate you with food and pleasure, and this is the fastest way to earn your bun’s trust. 

Food

We feed them unlimited Timothy hay and 1/2 cup of Oxbow Essentials Adult (Timothy-based) pellets. Rabbits enjoy a variety of hay. I provide them with Small Pet Select’s and Oxbow’s fresh Timothy and  Orchard hay daily. I no longer provide alfalfa hay because it is difficult to wean them off alfalfa hay. Many breeders do not recommend or use it because it can cause bladder/kidney issues. If your bun is not eating its hay, cut back on pellets. It is crucial that they get enough hay every day for proper gut health as well as teeth grinding. Hay provides a different type of teeth grinding than other items to chew on. 

By the time they are about 4 weeks old, they begin to nibble on mom’s veggies. Mom gobbles most of them up very quickly, so they don’t get a lot. We put 1 cup of veggies on a box that mom jumps on top of, but once babies are old enough to jump up there with her, we no longer worry about trying to keep them from eating them. We have had no issues feeding veggies early, but I still recommend only giving them 1/4 to 1/2 cup to start with if you want to incorporate veggies into their diet right now. Slowly introduce new veggies and watch their poop for changes. See the Poop article on the Rabbication page! This information can save your rabbit's life. Poop changes is the only way they can tell you if they are sick. The general rule of thumb is 1 cup of veggies per 3 pounds of rabbit.

Provide LOTS of Water!

All of our buns have a chicken waterer or gravity waterer in their set ups so they do not learn to use a water bottle here. They can learn at your place~however, rabbits drink as much as a 40 lb dog and a bottle is a bit more difficult to get sufficient water from it. I recommend a primary bowl and a bottle for back up. See Recommended Supply List page for links.

Chew Toys and Entertainment

They like to sleep, chew on activity logs, and hide out in hay huts and empty boxes with windows and doors. (See links on the Recommended Supply list page). When they are happy they will binky, flop, and sleep hard. (See the rabbit behaviors video on the Rabbication page.) Rabbits can get bored. Our buns get activity logs, a straw whisk broom, straw huts and straw mats to chew on. We’ve spent money on toys but occasionally only some of them will be interested in them. They would rather forage hay from a cardboard box with holes in it. You can also find DIY YouTube videos on how to make your own toys.

Should I get my bunny a buddy?

I recommend buying two so they can have a buddy while you are away at work. They groom and snuggle each other. They also feel safer with a buddy. Boy/Girl pairs are recommended first, then female pairs. Boy pairs can be successful but MUST absolutely be neutered or they will fight often or even kill each other. If you think you want to wait until later to get another rabbit, bonding could be difficult if the first rabbit is not fixed, or if it is a girl. Girls can be very territorial. It is best to bond them as early as possible. If you wait, you will need to use an x-pen to introduce them safely until they are sure to get along. See YouTube for bonding videos and education or my Rabbication page on this site.

If you want to get a male and female pair, I recommend buying an older male and getting him fixed right away so you will not have to worry about him being around the female and impregnating her. Boys can reproduce as early as three months. Females can as well. It’s not as likely, but it does happen. You can also get a female that is two months older and fix them at the same time.   

If you just want a male and a female now, and plan to “watch them carefully and supervise them,” the deed can happen in a matter of eight seconds or less. If you plan to fix them when they are of age, you MUST separate them at three months of age until your male can be fixed at four months. He will still need to be separated from your female for up to two months after surgery, as they can still impregnate due to hormones not leaving their system right away.

Should I get a male or female?

This is totally up to you but it depends on what you are looking for, what your plans are for the rabbit, and who the bunny is for. If it's your first time having a rabbit or you plan to give it to a child, I recommend a boy. MOST of the time, boys are more social and adventurous, and less shy or scared. Additionally, boys do not NEED to be neutered unless they are having behavioral or territorial (spraying and leaving excessive poo balls) issues. When we recognize any buns that are shy, we spend more time with them in an attempt to help them to be more trusting of humans.

Girls, on the other hand, are 60% at risk for developing uterine cancer if they do not get spayed. (You can spay them for a significantly reduced price if you purchase a cat/dog voucher at the SPCA in Wake Forest Raleigh or go to Sheets Pet Clinic in Greensboro. Ask your local vet before purchasing an SPCA voucher to see if they take them.) Girls are similarly sweet but at first, can seem to take longer to warm up to you. They are (usually)initially resistant to being your friend, but once they get to know and trust you, they are much better pets. Spaying can also help their hormonal attitudes that start around 3-4 months of age. You cannot spay a female until they are 6 months old. This is when they start to develop their reproductive systems more fully. They can breed safely (recommended) around 6-7 months. Female rabbits do not have periods or heat cycles.     

Nearby Vets

Avian and Exotics in Raleigh (919-844-9166) (Full Service)

Animal Emergency Hospital and Urgent Care in Raleigh (919-781-5145)

71st Animal Hospital in Fayetteville (910-487-5070)

North Star Veterinary Hospital in Parkton (910-858-2525)

Rim Road Animal Hospital in Fayetteville (910-487-0010)

Pinehurst Animal Hospital (910-692-3551) (spay/neuter only)

Sheets Pet Clinic in Greensboro (336-852-8488)

Caring Hands Animal Hospital in Clinton (910-592-8046)

Animal Kingdom in Cary (919-460-9111)

Animal Hospital in Fayetteville (910-323-1535) (Full Service/Neuter only)